|The Tharks on their bases, and on their thoats.|
|I'm priming them in flat black - normally, I use flat white.|
|Forced flash on the camera, so you can see a little detail|
Well, here we are, back again. I am delighted to be able to report that I can actually move my right foot; the very powerful anti-inflammatory that I am being dosed with is doing a great job, and I am feeling a lot better. Not perfect, but a lot better; I can, for the first time in two weeks, actually get a shoe - the largest and loosest one I have, admittedly! - onto my foot. The swelling has gone down that much; it still aches, as the foot gets used to the idea of being back on line, but it's not the agonizing pain that had kept me flat on my back for all too many days.
I'm supposed to stay off the foot, as much as possible, so I have been able to keep moving along with the new lead. (I'll have more reports, too, as I do have all of the new figures from The Tekumel Project to report on, as well.) The tharks are now all assembled; the thoats will come later, as being cast in resin they'll need a slightly different tool and skill set.
These stalwart warriors really look the business. You get six of them in very active combat poses, and the other six in the range are in 'ready for action' poses - several of them look, to my eye, like player-characters! There is a chieftain, a henchman, and ten warriors on foot; a chieftain and two on thoats. (And yes, I am aware that these are not really either in an 'Officially Authorized and Approved' sense, due to IP and license requirements; but, like the GW 'Elves' I gave square shields in order to have the Legion of Mnashu of Thri'il, these are my figures and I'll make of them what I will.) There's a massive assortment of nasty weapons, and I would not want to have these folks mad at me. Ever.
These went together very well; I took a tip from an old friend, Mr. Bill Hoyer, to do these up right. Bill, who is one of those people you've most likely never heard of, was one of the people who founded out hobby; he used to play miniatures with a bunch of guys in Lake Geneva, who you probably have heard of. He was there at the beginning, and a few years ago I had the very rare and wonderful honor of having him in my basement, playing on my game table with my miniatures. He had a great time, he said, and we had a lot of fun.
Bill's tip is, instead of using the usual cyano-acrylate gule to hold the parts together, was to use a product called "Walther's Goo", which is a contact adhesive that we model railroaders have been using for decades. It's a very good contact cement, and will hold just about anything to anything. It is a flexible glue, though, and I'd never even thought of using it on miniatures because of this.
What Bill taught me to do is attach the parts with the Goo, then flood the joint with cyano-acrylate to fix and hold the part rigidly. Both types of glue use acetone as their solvent, so they are mutually compatible - and the joints are both filled and locked together by the process. It works, and works really well. (Thank you, Bill!!!)
I normally primer my figures in flat white, as it does add a bit of 'bounce' to the acrylics I use. These are in flat black, as I want a different look to them, and the black will help punch up the details - again, these are big figures! Base color for the skin will be Testor's 'Model Master' 4734 'Medium Green', and the air-brushed layering will be Liquitex 'PHTHALOCYANINE GREEN'; I'll be thinning this way down so that it acts more like a whad then anything else; the underlying paints will allow the pigments to flow off the high points, thus giving nice highlights and really popping out the details. After that, brushwork as usual...
The thoats will need a touch up of very light sanding on their edges, which I expect for resin castings; these are very clean and sharp, so they'll need only a tiny bit of clean-up. That's for the next post, though... :)